Gardenias...full sun or partial?
to be honest with you, i had one in texas too and it is really going to need some shade when the summertime comes around..... plant something like bouganvilla or mandevillia which are flowering vines,,, set them in galvanized or wooden half barrels with trellises behind them.. they take sun and heat... you could also do window boxes with zinnias which ADORE full HOT sun!!!! and zinnias come in a bursting array of colours! YOu can also plant lantana in half barrels and they are easy and like hot sun as well as well as coreopsis( they look like long branched yellow daisies)... the options for a blacony or patio garden in full sun are many...good luck!
Reply:It's always best for garden's to get the morning sun. I would spend some afternoons and see when and what part of the roof has shade in the afternoon. For like 3 till 6 when It gets the hottest. Then I would try just a couple of flowers and plants and see how they do in the heat and how much water you will be needing. Now I live in NC so we don't get as hot as y'all so make sure you get seedling's or plants that to well in the heat and will go dormant in the winter. There are a lot of plants that do well in the heat but died if it stays below freezing for too long. I hope that you have a beautiful garden.
Reply:Gardenias are popular shrubs and ornamentals in the southern part of the United States where severe cold won't damage the plants. Plants always seem to have more blooms at the time you receive them than any other time in their life due to less than favorable growing conditions in most homes.
Gardenias thrive on 68-74 degrees F temperatures in the day, and 60 degrees F evening temperatures. Plants prefer full sun indoors; if grown outdoors for the spring, summer and early fall, keep plants in partial shade. An east or covered west porch will be satisfactory.
High humidity is essential to gardenia care. Avoid misting the foliage, though, as leaf spot fungal problems will develop. The soil should be kept uniformly moist, but don’t overwater. A loose, well-drained organic soil is recommended.
Fertilize monthly between April and November with an acid fertilizer.
Check regularly for insects and other pests such as aphids, mealybugs, spider mites, thrips and scales. Follow recommended control practices if pest problems occur.
The most irritating problem encountered with gardenias is "bud drop,"when flower buds abort just before blooming. Common causes include low humidity, over-watering, under-watering, insufficient light high temperatures, rapid temperature fluctuations, cold drafts or change in plant locations. In other words, gardenias are temperamental!
Plants that do not set flower buds may be experiencing too much warmth.
Disease Problems:
Canker (fungus--Phomopsis gardeniae)
One of the most common gardenia diseases, canker is identifiable by a main stem swollen near or below the soil line. The bark also becomes corky and contains numerous longitudinal cracks in the cankered area. The stem above the canker is bright yellow in contrast to normal greenish white. If the humidity is high, a yellowish substance may be seen on the surface. Affected plants are stunted and die slowly. Destroy all diseased plants to prevent spread of the disease. Place new plants in a different location. Disease is easily spread on propagating knives.
Bacterial Leaf Spot (bacteria--Pseudomonas gardeniae, Xanthomonas campestris cv. Maculifolium-gardeniae)
Small, round ovoid spots on young, tender leaves are the first sign of bacterial leaf spot. As the spots enlarge, the center is at first pale yellow and later becomes reddish-brown surrounded by a yellow halo. Margins of the lesions are thickened and water-soaked in appearance. Spots may coalesce to form large, irregularly shaped spots. Severe infection may cause defoliation. Avoid overhead watering. The disease is spread by taking cuttings from infected plants. Use sterilized soil and pots.
Rhizoctonia Leaf Spot (fungus--Rhizoctonia spp.)
Leaves infected with this fungal leaf spot disease have tan to brown spots up to 1/4 inch in diameter. Spots are circular and zoned. The disease begins on the older leaves and spreads upward when the plants are watered excessively or when air circulates poorly because of overcrowding. Diseased leaves should be destroyed and sterilized soil should be used. Disease-free plants should be used for propagation. Avoid wetting foliage when watering.
Leaf Spot (fungi--Cercospora spp., Phyllosticta spp.)
These fungi cause spots of various sizes on leaves throughout the year. Spots may be small, dark-brown necrotic areas surrounded by a yellow halo. In severe cases, premature leaf drop may occur. Control is obtained by spraying with a folia fungicide at regular intervals.
Sooty Mold (fungus--Capnodium spp.)
Sooty mold causes black, thin layers of the fungus to form over the upper surface of the leaves. Sooty mold is caused by a fungus that grows on sugary exudates from white flies. Control white fly.
Bud Drop:
Bud drop, the abnormal dropping of buds, occurs during periods of high night temperatures or during periods of low light intensity. Some bud drop is a natural condition. Every effort should be made to keep the soil uniformly moist, but not wet, during flowering.
Powdery Mildew (fungus--Erysiphe polygoni)
Powdery mildew is characterized by white, powdery spots on leaves. Use preventive fungicide.
Other Diseases:
Root Knot Nematode, Cotton Root Rot, Crown Gall and Mushroom Root Rot
Reply:normally full,half is also k
Reply:Your choice of gardenias is a good one. Their fragrance is unmatched. Living in Texas you experience very warm temps so, your best location would be on the east side of the house if possible. This way they will get the "early" and "cooler" sunlight. By afternoon, when the sun is in the western sky and smokin' hot, they will be in a more shaded or partially shaded area (hopefully). 4-5 hrs of direct early sunlight will suffice and keep your gardenias from frying in the Texas heat. Hope this answers your question...
...$Billy Ray$
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